November 14, 2025
Day 73 — Shimo-Kamagari Island to Etajima
The morning was sunny but crisp and cool, with a slight but persistent breeze. Definitely puffy jacket and longjohn weather. It was nice to see the sun again after a few days of high grey cloud.
The agenda for the day was fairly light, mileage-wise. It was Marilee’s birthday, so we had booked a night at a nice resort on Etajima, not far from the ferry to Hiroshima back on Honshu. And the weather gods had done their bit and made the day sunny, with temps in the high teens in the forecast.
The ride was basically two 20 km chunks. The first bit was to get back to the mainland and get to the ferry to Etajima in Kure. The second was to cross Etajima and get to the resort.
The first leg was pleasant until we crossed the bridge back to Honshu, where we ended up on the worst kind of busy road. No shoulder, poor sidewalk, and dense traffic in a hurry. The best part was actually a tunnel, which had a separated bike lane and was closed off from the vehicle lane. Easiest bit of riding of the morning.
We made it to the ferry terminal with plenty of time to spare for the 11:30, and were once again assisted at the ticket machine by an earnest and helpful staff member. Unlike the previous ferry, this one had a few other people on it, though not many.
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Once on Etajima we trolled the streets of Koyo, where the ferry docked, looking for lunch, but the town was quiet and empty. We ended up crossing half the island before hitting a grocery store, had lunch in a deserted children’s playground, then completed the last leg along the sunny coast.
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We arrived good and early to the resort, which seemed deserted mid-afternoon in the offseason. We were able to check in early, and Marilee managed a swim, which was followed by a long soak in the onsen. The onsen at the resort was on the fourth floor and had sweeping views of the ocean and nearby islands, and I had the men’s to myself. Definitely in the top 5 soaks of the trip.
Birthday dinner was Shabu-Shabu with sliced wagyu beef. This is basically a small hotpot where the diner bubbles their own vegetables, meat and noodles. Delicious.
Today's ride: 41 km (25 miles)
Total: 3,765 km (2,338 miles)
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