Day 24 — Owani to Lake Towada - Tom and Marilee Retire to the Road

September 26, 2025

Day 24 — Owani to Lake Towada

So the day’s agenda was the second stage on the climb to Lake Towada. In fact, most of the hilly bit remained to do, the ride to Owani just got us a bit closer and shaved a couple hundred metres off. There was still over 1000m of climb to do, but only over 50 odd km.

We didn’t dare ask for breakfast out of our decaying onsen resort hotel and its aging/irritable staff. So I was up with the larks to trek out to the highway to the Family Mart, which was actually a lovely early morning stroll.

We peeked above the frosted glass in our bathroom window and found that keeping up with the Joneses was not a challenge

Once full of yogurts and bananas and as much of an egg salad sandwich we could take, we were off. It was essentially going to be two big climbs and two big descents to bring us to the lake.

The first little bit was on the highway, but soon enough we veered off onto the secondary road up to the lake, and the first climb began in earnest. This first climb was an unrelenting 450m through apple orchards (where we paused at a stand to buy two very perfect apples), and then ascending on past the arable land into the forest.

Traffic was light, and other than the constant climb, it was a lovely road. We topped out eventually, and turned a corner into a heavily logged hillside. It was like we had biked back home! We had been seeing many small sawmills and loaded logging trucks, but mysteriously little evidence of actual harvesting. Here was some, finally.

Planted clear cuts in the distance. Where are we again?

Next was a brake squealing descent to the next highway, which meandered through some small towns and heavily shored hillsides. The turn onto highway 102 saw a bit more traffic, but some spectacular views along the river we were following. We noted that most of the water courses we were seeing were managed and engineered, as were many of the hillsides.

The second climb started slowly, and we gained a couple hundred metres through gradual 2-4% gradients. The last bit though was back to the 6-8% stuff, which went on longer than we thought it really ought to have. Again, a lovely ride except for the relentless switchbacking climb.

We managed to get to the Takinosawa Pass observatory (a lofty name for a raised concrete platform), at the juncture of highways 102 and 254 having done 950m of climbing by 12:30. We had our modest lunch in the cool wind whipping around, enjoying peekaboo views of the Lake far below us.

The Takinosawa Pass Observatory in all its glory

Then another white knuckle descent to the lake, including through several debris sheds and one scary looking tunnel. Then we spilled out onto the road around the lake, which was an absolute delight. 15 km of carefree pedalling later, we alighted at Towadako Backpackers Lodge, where yet again we confused an elderly woman by our request for lodging, requiring a daughter (this one very cheerful) to be summoned to rescue the situation.

A trip to the super fancy onsen at the super fancy hotel down the road, a hot meal at the hostel, some convivial chat with other hostellers, and that’s the day!

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 1,158 km (719 miles)

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Bill PetersI’m impressed! Both with your cycling/exploring adventures and with your raconteuring/photography talents. We really look forward to each instalment. Keep it going you two.
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3 months ago

Tom BrocklehurstThanks! Glad you’re enjoying it. The riding really has been awesome. Lots of very scenic roads and interesting places to see. Tomorrow’s another day!
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3 months ago

Marilee PetersThanks Dad!! Tom gets the credit for all photos except the ones featuring him.
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3 months ago