September 10, 2025
Day 8 — Rebun to Sarufutsu
We woke up to a bluebird day on Rebun. Clear, crisp and sunny, and only breezy. Looked to be a great day for the ferry ride back to Wakkanai.
It was only 5 km or so from the campground to the ferry terminal, and we were up with the birds as usual. We have found that it gets full on dark a little past 6 pm, and light around 5 am, so we’re truly early to bed early to rise.
The ride back to the ferry was short but lovely, hugging the shore with great views of Rishiri, and it was sunny and only a slight headwind. We were sad it had to end so quickly.
Once we had purchased ferry tickets, we had some time to watch the ferry arrive and dock. Docking is an interesting process, as the ferry charges bow first towards the pier, swings its stern (I am no mariner, forgive me) out so it is parallel to the pier then backs into position to allow vehicles on and off through the back. Securing the vessel is a hands on affair, as the crew spin weighted lead lines and throw them onto shore, where the line is hauled in manually.
We ensconced ourselves in a lounge area, desperately claiming outlets, when we realized we could hear chanting and singing. I ventured out on deck, where I could hear the singing coming from. There was a loud and active group on shore engaging in a vigorous, almost Hakka like farewell song. A number of people on deck were singing and clapping along. The man I was standing next to said this was the staff of the youth hostel, and they do this for every sailing. Amazing.
We got lucky with the weather for the sailing and whatever clouds there were on Rishiri dissipated as the morning wore on. The decks were full of tourists like us taking innumerable photos of the volcano.
Once back in Wakkanai we sourced some lunch and did some banking — it always seems a small miracle that some random ATM in the middle of nowhere will produce cash for you, and the Japanese oblige with the ATMs making happy lottery win noises when the cash comes out.
Next destination was Cape Soya, the most northerly point in Japan. The route from Wakkanai followed the coast, and was dead flat. We had a howling tailwind as well, so we just pounded the 35 km there.
Cape Soya marked a bit of a beginning milestone, as everything now will be headed south. It was a pretty cool spot — with Sakhalin Island visible in the distance. There was a lineup to take photos at the monument, and we waited behind two fellows that were making videos of a doll and other figures in front of the monument.
After Cape Soya, we headed south (obviously) along the coast highway. It was a very pretty ride in the afternoon sun, with occasional climbs inland through forest to cut across the odd headland. We passed several scallop processing plants, and many huge shell middens.
Eventually we found our way to the Sarufutsu Camping Ground Park, which was a huge open field of lush grass around a large bandshell. After setting up, we … you guessed it … hit the onsen in the hotel. Dinner was also at the hotel, which had an enormous dining hall playing country music of all things. Nothing like country music to go with your scallop sashimi!
Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 298 km (185 miles)
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4 months ago