September 7, 2025
Day 5 — Wakkanai to Kutsugata, Rishiri Island
Marilee here.
It rained during the night and was still drizzling when we woke up, so we were in no hurry to get going. We dawdled over coffee at the campsite hoping the rain would stop but it did the opposite, really building up to a true rain just when we couldn’t put off packing up any longer.
And, once the wet tent was stuffed sopping into a bike bag and we’d accepted the inevitable and donned full rain gear for the ride back to town, the rain stopped. Of course. Thanks weather gods!
In any case, it was just a quick spin downhill and through the mostly empty streets of downtown Wakkanai to get the ferry terminal for our ferry over to Rishiri island. Empty that is except for a herd of deer that Tom sent clattering down a city street, like some bicycle cowboy (deerboy?) and a crowd of runners gathering for the annual Wakkanai marathon. We arrived just as the starting gun went off and the runners surged past.
We were in plenty of time for the ferry, and no struggles with rinko bags or finding the right platform, which gave us an opportunity to chat with a cyclist couple from Montana and to peruse the Japanese language tourist materials.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
When the ferry steamed into port, we both took an almost professional interest in noting the differences in docking procedures here as compared to BC Ferries (after our extensive experience with ferries this summer, we’re practically experts, after all). One big difference: cyclists (and their bikes) get some attention here. Ferry workers came and carefully tied down our bikes before the boat departed.
Of course, tying down the bikes may have been a special precaution— it was a very rough crossing over to Rishiri. Inside the boat, in the economy lounge area where we managed to snag an outlet for the all-important recharging of devices, we barely noticed, but Tom ventured out on deck and reported it was rather a wild scene — the boat plunging through big rollers.
But soon enough we arrived on Rishiri. We parted ways with our new friends from Montana and headed across the island to the town of Kutsugata.
Most of the way we were on a dedicated cycle path winding through a kind of moor covered in tall feathery grasses, blooming gorse and goldenrod, reeds and bushes. It was really a jungle, but never more than waist high — likely because of the fierce wind blowing across the landscape. And just beyond the edge of the moor waves were crashing wildly on the rocks. It was a stunning ride, despite the rain and a headwind that slowed us to a crawl.
it was mid-afternoon and the sun had struggled out by the time we arrived in Kutsugata and found the campsite we’d hoped to stay at. The location was stunning, on a rocky headland directly overlooking the ocean, but with gale force winds still battering in we were pretty worried about being so exposed. Luckily there was another campground just a few minutes further on, inland and nestled in trees. We chose the sheltered location over the Heathcliffian wind barrage at the (more scenic) first campground.
| Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Next up, after the camping arrangements were sorted: a restorative bath. We walked back into town and located the onsen, attached to one of the hotels. We had to reacquaint ourselves with the etiquette of Japanese bathing, which we were somewhat familiar with from our previous trip to Japan several years ago. Such as: don’t put your dirty body directly into the hot spring. Cleaning happens before you get into the pool, and it is supposed to be a serious scrub down, if the example set by the other women at this onsen was anything to go by.
The onsen was set right by the ocean, with outdoor pools where you could watch the sun setting over the breakers crashing into shore. Magical!
Afterwards we stumbled into the nearest restaurant, which turned out to be a tiny, cosy place run by an elderly couple, stooped but energetic. We had noodles and a set meal of pork cutlet — and we remembered to take pictures!
Today's ride: 24 km (15 miles)
Total: 87 km (54 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 10 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 2 |
4 months ago