Hike to Pliegue de Tumbado

January 3, 2026

Friday 2nd January got consumed in journal updating. Rest by listening to podcasts and reading my book then more journaling. With the fine weather I was raring to get out on another hike and there was time in the evening for a food shop for a hike. Returning from the shops met Uppsala climber who with his 2 Swedish companions had returned from Cerro Torres. He looked worn out with broken skin on his face and said the wind broke their tent and they slept out under a rock. After a short exchange I left him saying "I'm so tired with little sleep and a 12 hour march back. I just want to go out and get drunk this evening"

I organised everything in my rucksack before going to sleep so all I had to do this morning is get up and go, leaving the campsite at 05.30; a comfortable amount of time to walk across town over the Fitzroy river bridge and pass the parkrangers house and checkpoint before 06. A few strides behind were a young couple most likely with the same motive of entering the park without paying 25,000 pesos (£24). So too were a group of 7 young mixed nationality English speakers from North America, England and India at the top of the intial steep ascent who stood around taking in the vista of Mount Fitzroy while discussing the park entrance fees and the fact they were out early to avoid paying as I boiled water for breakfast.

Once finished and continuing along the trail across pastureland grazed by a small herd of Hereford cows and this year's calves which galloped away from the walkers the cows letting out great mooing roars in pursuit of their offspring. They'd regrouped off at a safe distance to the side staring back. A girl from the group left the trail approaching them cautiously trying not to set them off in another stampede in an attemp to get within arm's reach of them and pet one.

It has been found that cows are good conservationists and no doubt this Hereford herd are here for that reason. A hardy old breed, surviving winter snow. They are selective grazers keeping the grass down and allowing useful herbs and wildflowers to flourish unlike sheep that graze everything bare.

Above 1000 metres vegetation becomes sparse: the itinerary reminds me of the interior of Iceland

At 4 kilometres there is a split in the trail with the way going right across more pasture then uphill through woodland emerging out upon shorter sparser pasture and a few hundred metres on, most of the vegetation peterers out altogether; ahead is a traverse of barren bare rock and stones with wooden stakes at intervals marking the trail. Off to the left is a towering hill with the trail visible zig-zagging its way up the steep slope. Though for the time being the trail continues up a low hill at a right-angle to the latter climb, toward Fitzroy and Cerro Torres with the other peaks of the range towering over the line of the hilltop, vivid grey rock spires against clear blue sky. Over the crest the way continues a few hundred metres to a spot looking down upon Laguna Torres where I'd been on cloudy days: today it is good to see Cerro Torres, the lower slopes and massif with tablular tops; the glacier in a valley between it and foot of Fitzroy.

At 08.45 having reached the first mirador the air is still and sun not fully risen to its full height. The young couple and the group are the only others here yet. Shortly come a French family: parents with a little boy and girl. I boil more water for mate and eat a peanut butter and banana sandwich and remain admiring the view for an hour before packing up and setting off for the high hill.

It is extremely steep and I'm thinking it'll be scary coming back down what with being almost on hands and knees in parts scrambling up over loose stones. But eventually the top is reached. The French family sat atop a stone pile and the group taking self-timed group photos. The view even more spectacular with a vista down into the valley to the south wherein the Tunel river flows down to Lago Viedma and looking west up the valley toward a glacier and the Southern Icefield.

The start of the way down with Lago Viedma top right

cows take cover from midday sun and flies

The walk down coming up on midday was hot with big horseflies buzzing around, lighting on and around my ears. I was swiping flies, soon loosing count of how many killed, nonetheless leaving a trail of dead flies. Also forgot my buff so was somewhat burned. Stop for cheese, ham and tomatoe omelette at Matilda cafe with an IPA, cold and so appreciated on such a hot day. Then back to campsite and stretch out on the ground for an hour before taking a much needed shower.

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