November 14, 2025
Lago Vintter to Rio Pico
The bivouac felt snug and warm and I was waiting for some sunshine before getting out of it, but it remained overcast and when I did get up, I saw it already raining on the other side of the lake.
My usual breakfast routine of drinking mate while sat against the Kona was desturbed when a fisherman came in underneath the bridge and shivered at the thought of bivouacing. He suggested that there is a much better campsite in woodland a little before the bridge and proceeded to lead the way to have a look at it. He introduced himself as Raul, adding he has been coming to Lago Vintter in November for 45 years. He drives up from Rio Gallegos where his wife is from while he grew up in Punta Arenas having an Italian father and Croation mother. He looked only a few years older than me as he effortlessly passed between two strands of wire in the fence and strode into a clearing open to the lake, but then he told me he is 81. I replied astonished that he didn't look his age.
I left Raul as he hurried off to call home below a phone-mask on a mound nearby as I set off with the rain not getting any closer apart from a few spits.
The road ran along the lake for a few kilometres with rainy sky and a brisk breeze creating choppy waters lapping against the shore. Eventually the road swings away from the lake and the view is hidden by lenga and pine trees.
I reached the beginning of a long descent to Rio Pico early afternoon and at the start is a stand of lenga woodland that made a great spot to stop for lunch.
I arrived in Rio Pico at 17 hrs and stop at the first shop for a coke and crisps. The dog laid out outside the shop got up and slunk away as I sat against the Kona to have my snack.
I rode around the few streets of the village looking for indoors acommodation but found none. Then returned to a hotel I'd passed on the way in set in large grounds surrounded by popular trees, but it wasn't open, due to it still being out of season, perhaps. I don't know as I didn't see anyone about and the doors were locked. Back in town I turned onto an avenue I hadn't checked, leading out to the road continuing east where I saw a camping sign and following the signs found a basic campsite free of charge. I returned to a food shop I'd passed on the avenue and bought a can of beer before going back and setting up camp.
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 2 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |