Day 101 — Naha to Tokashiki Island - Tom and Marilee Retire to the Road

December 12, 2025

Day 101 — Naha to Tokashiki Island

With a certain amount of progress made in resolving the bike box issue for our flights on the 16th, we felt free to take a couple of days to explore the islands off of Naha.

Some things are easier said than done, and planning our excursion offered some frustrations. There were several possible destinations, but it was tricky to get a full view of ferries and connections among the cluster of islands that included Zamami, Tokashiki and Aka. Aka and islands south were connected to Zamami by ferry, but it was hard to navigate the multiple ferry company websites, mostly in Japanese, to get a firm view of times etc. So we resolved just to go to the ferry terminal, take the ferry to Zamami which went at 10, and see what happened. The major islands seemed to have small towns with basic groceries, so cup noodle and beer should be available at a minimum. We hoped.

We got to the ferry terminal 9ish, and located the counter (each island had its own ferry company with its own counter) for Zamami, and asked for tickets. Nope. Needed a reservation. Hm. With glum thoughts of filling 2 more days in Naha in our heads, we went to the next counter for the Tokashiki ferry, which we thought was leaving at 9, but turned out to be 10. We could get tickets, but needed to fill out an application. So we did. Then we needed to get the bikes checked in and paid for at another office on the pier. Run around, find the office, pay the fee, get a form, leave the bikes, run back to the counter. Tickets in hand, we got the bikes handed off to the cargo guys and headed up the gangplank. Phew! Guess we’re going to an island after all. Not the one we planned, but…

The crossing itself turned out to be part of the fun. Once we were past the breakwater we were into decent sized swells, and our modest sized ferry lurched up and splashed down, and occasionally shimmied sideways. After a short while we started passing a number of small islands, lush, sun-drenched and with lovely looking wide deserted beaches.

The arrival into port on Tokashiki was also cool, as we swept in close around a steep rocky islet that was linked to the shore by a shallow reef, which created a natural breakwater for the small harbour. Clearly the daily arrival and departure of the ferry was the major event for the port town. There was a shuttle bus waiting to shepherd day trippers to Aharen Beach, and once that was gone it was pretty quiet in the small town! We lingered a bit to find a grocery store, which did thankfully exist and which had sustenance enough for us on the off chance there was nothing at Aharen Beach.

Tokashiki island is part of a group of islands that form Keramashoto National Park. There is little industry or development on the island. Tourism seems limited to whatever comes over on the daily ferry. There are a few guesthouses and one campground at Aheren Beach, 6 km down island from the port, which is where we were headed.

Ferry terminal — the biggest building in town

Gathering strength for the massive 6 km ride to Aharen Beach

The ride down island was all too brief. Roads were quiet, it was warm and lush, and so beautiful. There was of course a decent hill to get over, a steep little 135 metre climb, but which had incredible views from the top.

We were at Aheren far too soon after a sweaty climb and swooping descent. We found the campground, and set up not too far from the beach. The only other resident was a young backpacker from Saskatchewan, of all places. This is a nicer place to be in December than Regina. After that, there was some solid beach time. It was a stunningly beautiful spot, well worth the ferry trip. Most other beach goers were day trippers — the ferry arrived at 10:30 and returned to Naha at 3:30. Once the shuttle gathered them up there was almost no one around. A wander through town found most businesses, not that there were many, closed. Either they plied the lunch trade for the day trippers, or were closed for the season. We did find a place to serve us a couple of beers and some snacks. After that, it was a dinner of cup noodle on the beach and watching the sun go down.

Bike rack at the elementary school in town

Today's ride: 6 km (4 miles)
Total: 4,843 km (3,008 miles)

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