December 23, 2025
Hike to Laguna Torre
Was going up to Lago Del Los Tres, but discover trail leads to a control zone whereby I would be charged 45,000 pesos (£25) to continue walking, so change direction towards Laguna Torres, which has an old trail that bypasses park enforcers. This is a new feature here, paying to enter the national park which no doubt is due to the present regime's government cuts.
Anyway it was a bright sunny morning and good to get moving. The path familar as I hiked it 2 weeks ago; up a valley through ancient woodland with a promontory viewpoint midway where most pause (there were quite a few others) to rest and view the mountains. Fitzroy clear of cloud while Cerro Torres as usual completely shrouded. Rio Fitzroy flows through a canyon far below from its source Laguna Torres where the trail ends up and over a huge moraine to its shore.
After lunching on the glacial lakeshore I amble around upon the moraine to see the river flow out and see the zipwire Peter the Briton from my O Higgins group discribed having to pull himself across on his big multi-day hike. It looks dangerous but Peter is a mountain guide and knew what he was doing. By now the wind is getting up and strong gusts make it hard staying upright as I retreat down the moraine to the shelter of the forest.
Arrive back at campsite at 17 hrs and I'm dreaming of a white Christmas is the song in the common room, where I spend a few hours getting on top of journal writing. Toward the end of which it has grown extremely dull out. Raining, not heavy but with the wind the damp chills to the bone as I head to Bandidos Patagonicos for a steak dinner.
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