November 11, 2025
Esquel
When wifi works its great. Still there are instances when it doesn't, and that can be a pain.
Both networks in the hostel here in Esquel I connected to but there was the messege "Connected but without internet access' This was the status of my connection the whole of yesterday. However, this morning, hey presto-the wifi works. I was able to get the journal fully updated by noon, at which time the hostel receptionist shows up fussing over Snop the cat and I paid for another night as I feel its good to have one non-cycling day per week.
It has been a restfull and unevenful day. Thats good because there is less to write home about. I did two walks though. The first in early afternoon: six blocks south to where the flat ends and a steep hill rears up and a rougher neighbourhood of precariously built houses are spread up the hillside. Returning back I was in time for an IPA at the craft beer place beside the hostel before they closed for the afternoon. Served with a small bowl of peanuts it was as good a lunch as any.
I set off shortly after 17 hrs for my second walk to the old train station with its narrow gauge railway. All the steam locomotives were locked in their sheds as it is a tourist service that runs on Saturday. Though in its day before it was reopened for tourists, it was part of an ambitious plan to connect Patagonia's far flung towns with a rail network. Work began on this section in 1922 and it took decades to complete. It remained in servive until the late 1980s and the author of In Patagonia Bruce Chatwin rode on it, where he writes a chapter about his train journey and fellow train travellers on the way back to Esquel.
I haven't ridden on it myself as a tourist train effectionally called "La Trochita" It tends to get booked up well in advance, so it takes a bit of planning. But maybe one day.
I walked along the railway track until it curved round by the hill to the east of town. Then cut down a trail to a street that led to the main avenue to walk back. On the way I passed two bike shops and found an out-door shop where I bought an expensive camping gas at 26,000 pesos, or £14.45.
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 2 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |