Day 20: Telchac Puerto to Progreso - Grampies Find Their Legs - Again! Yucatan Winter 2026 - CycleBlaze

January 18, 2026

Day 20: Telchac Puerto to Progreso

My dreams with the seabirds fly, out of reach, out of cry, (out of focus.?)

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We consulted our friend near Progreso for any source of our needed Microsoft charger. It turns out that Amazon is a thing even way out here, and he ordered us one on two day delivery. We should have it tomorrow, but for now there is no way to download photos from the big camera. That means a bird photo holiday (well, mostly)!

We set out on the coastal road, which is one of the more fun rides in Yucatan. There are views of the water and of water birds from time to time. Other parts of the ride are through the "manglares" (mangroves). One of the common man made sights is of huge apartment or hotel construction projects, apparently frozen in some financial crisis, or perhaps proceeding flat out, but on Mexican time. 

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I could look this up to find the story.
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We rode beside water like this, often with wader birds to be seen.
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This one looks finished and rather nice.
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Now here is a strange one. No need to go to Barcelona for a little Gaudi.
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The iguana conveys to us tht it is hot and dry here.
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Here for excitement is a factory making the circular cakes for Tres Reyes. I wonder what  they do in the other months of the year.

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About 10 km out of Progreso there is a small supermarket. That could be unremarkable, except that it is the biggest thing around, and the only source of fresh vegetables until in Progreso itself.. We stopped in mainly to look, but also it is air conditioned! Dodie went in first while I stayed with the bikes. I used the time to show Google Lens my e-assist controller. I wanted to get the model number, since it has been acting up a bit. The AI came back saying it sees a bunch of dirty bike parts in poor repair. Am I going to put up with that kind of lip from a stupid box?

The small but air conditioned store.
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What do you see?
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Mark BinghamI see a miraculous piece of machinery developed over the course of about two centuries, with countless refinements, culminating in this photo.
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4 days ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Mark BinghamThank you. That is what we see also. Stupid AI.
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4 days ago

We pulled abreast of Chicxulub Puerto, which is the nearest location on land to the spot where the asteroid hit 66 million years ago, causing the fourth extinction, wiping out the dinosaurs. The energy released is said to have been like 10 billion Hiroshima sized atomic bombs. It caused quite a mess,with gobs of the earth even hitting the moon.  From my photo, it seems like they have not yet tidied up! However there were lots of birds in the nearby waters

A tidier part of Chicxulub Puerto. Other bits are a real mess.
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Out on the road, several dinosaur models have been erected. It's part of a dinosaur trail and display centre they have tried out here. We have never found it open, but definitely in town there is a major meteorite museum, and we were targeting that now.

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Karen PoretHmmm. Wonder what the black cord is for.. Dinosaur reins or 220 voltage. 😬
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1 week ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretPrevention of dinosaur theft?
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Karen PoretTo Steve Miller/GrampiesCannot tell if the cord is attached to the palm tree or not for this theory. What about the rest of the clan? They are (excuse this pun)..cordless. 😬
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We entered Progreso and traveled down several outlying streets before reaching our place. It's called the Villamar, and is a  impressive mansion built in 1925, during the hennequen boom. It is very elegant, with super high ceilings. Our room is on the ground floor, and is large.

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Palm trees outside our mansion are very elegant.

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Close view of part of the bark.
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Mark BinghamThat's really cool, almost like capillaries. I wonder if it's old xylem/phloem, and for what purpose it evolved.
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4 days ago
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Across the street the wind known as El Norte is whipping up the Gulf. It almost blew me off my bike a few kms back.
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We set out to walk along the malecon to the meteorite museum. Along the way are some more vintage elegant mansions.

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Mark BinghamLooks idyllic!
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Mark BinghamNext time we think we may stay for several days. It is so relaxing.
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Dodie went into a restaurant to visit the bano, leaving me to watch seabirds.

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At the museum, there are lots of dinosaur models and images outside.

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We have read about increased use of different fees in France and Italy for EU citizens vs others. That is a common practice here as well. But Dodie conned them into believing that we were 100 peso old timers 

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Jean-Marc StrydomAs in Africa, older people are still respected in Latin America. When faced with the question "¿cuántos años tienes?", the magic answer "sesenta y cinco" often reduces prices and bumps one to the front of the queue.
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1 week ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Jean-Marc StrydomWe have also found this. People express such surprise and admiration on finding out we are 77 and cycling round the Yucatan.
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1 week ago
Some fun details on these regs
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Karen PoretLast but not least..a big “typo”.. whit instead of with, pets.. 😂
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretHey, at least the Spanish is correct.
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Karen PoretTo Steve Miller/GrampiesSi!
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The museum is very well crafted. It begins with the Big Bang and follows cosmic evolution, to the time of the 66 million years ago cataclysm. There are displays of meteorites, and many fossils. The party tricks for the museum are film clips on multi screens and many animatronic dinosaurs. It's a bit superficial and theatric, but fine for most visitors, including us.

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Film shows the impact radius
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Demo of a paleontologist's dig.
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The Mexicans threw in one of their own fanciful creatures at the end, just for fun.
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Wow, $1.60 for the washroom. But you can get a shower too. With a $2.40 shower, I would economize and pee in there too!
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Cocos frios on the way home.
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One last mansion before ours.
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5 km of strolling at the waterfront
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Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 719 km (446 miles)

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Bob KoreisDid the rooms with the dinosaurs have imagined dinosaur sounds playing?
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Bob KoreisYes, indeed. There was roaring, screeching, grunting and more.
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1 week ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Bob KoreisSteve here. I have been "interviewing" various field animals in videos for the grandchildren, and I interviewed the dinosaurs. If you wanted to send an email address or Whatsapp number to shadybrook at shaw dot ca I would send you a copy!
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6 days ago