December 12, 2025
To Calitzdorp
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Five minutes into my ride this morning I had to turn back. I realised that I had left my phone in my room. "Did you get lost already?", quipped Magda, the lovely lady host of the guest house. My phone was where I had left it, just beside the bathroom sink.
Today, for the first time in weeks, I started heading West, through the Klein Karoo, towards Swelllendam. It was quickly clear to me that the Klein Karoo was very different to the Great Karoo. The former was greener, hillier and more agricultural. I spotted vineyards in the distant hills, and related sign boards advertising wine tasting stops just off the main road. I was now on the R62, also known as Route 62, which is a scenic route through the Klein Karoo, known for its greenery and hilly landscape resulting in some stunning views that I looked forward to over the next few days. Today was an undulating route made slightly more challenging by a strong head wind. Thankfully, I allowed myself the luxury of a 51km day, so didn't anticipate fighting the wind for too long.
My destination town was Calitzdorp, which I reached after an uneventful but scenic ride, just before midday. This suited me, because I planned to do a historic buildings walk and visit the town museum before the mid afternoon heat arrived. I managed, and enjoyed both. Calitzdorp is a small Karoo town with 6 or 7 streets arranged in a grid pattern around the impressive Dutch Reformed Church, which is built in sandstone and towers over the town. The bells of the church still chime correctly on the hour, and the clock displays the correct time. The historic buildings are now either peoples homes or guest houses, or wine cellars offering wine tasting, all still preserving the beauty of 1800s architecture. I was impressed at how much there was to see in this tiny town. After dinner, I strolled along what was labelled as "historic walk 2", and enjoyed more architectural beauty, before settling down for the evening. A regional power cut made the evening slightly unpleasant: no lights, no fans, lots of mosquitos taking advantage of the dark rooms with no airflow. The guest house owner said the high winds today had brought down powerlines. I decided it was going to be another tent-in-room night given the mosquito situation.
As I lay in the darkness of my room, I thought about the amount of poverty I was seeing during this tour of Southern Africa. On a daily basis, I would be approached by people asking me to buy them bread and milk, or alcohol, or drugs. I usually oblige with bread and milk. These poverty stricken people are always polite and friendly, and are very grateful when I hand them bread and milk. I feel selfish and guilty being a priviledged traveller in the same space where they struggle every day. These thoughts dampen my mood this evening.
Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 2,375 km (1,475 miles)
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