December 9, 2025
To Silwerkaroo Gastehuis
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There were two ways to get to the N12 leading out of Beaufort West. I selected the route that was slightly shorter, and involved taking a secondary road to join the N1 after about 13km. As I was blissfully pedalling along in the rresh morning air, watching signs of Beaufort West waking to a new day, an elderly man pulled up alongside me in his van. "I hope you're not heading to Oudtshoorn!", he shouted over the rattling sound if his engine. When I told him that I was, he shook his head and said "I thought so, when I saw your bags and bicycle! Do you know that this road becomes a very bad gra el road in a kilometre?" Now he had my attention. He continued "You should take the other road out of town which is good tarmac. Do you know it?" I told him that I did and had chosen this route because it was 4km shorter! He laughed. I laughed. He then said, "I was going the other way and when I saw you I turned round to catch you toward you about the road." I thanked him and shook his hand and explained how he had saved me a whole lot of suffering! Yet again, a kind gesture from a stranger who didn't have to go through any effort for my benefit. The day was onto a good start.
Today's journey involved a 60km gradual climb at about 3% average, into a moderate headwind all the way. My destination was a sheep farm in the heart of the Karoo. Silwerkaroo Gastehuis was the old farm house now converted to accommodation for weary travellers. The farm sits on 10,000 acres of land and the owners also welcome guests to their "Padstall", or farmshop, where farm products can be purchased. There is no cooked food provided, but "braai packs" are available at the farm shop. It is an idyllic setting and a unique experience that I was happy to try out.
About 50km into the ride I spotted an obstruction on the road. As I approached, I was thrilled to realise that it was a very large tortoise crossing over to the other side! He/she was about one third the size of my bike. He/she was confidently plodding along and didn't retreat into his/her shell when I stood right beside him/her. I was quite excited, and decided to wave down passing traffic until he/ she was safely across the road. All the passing traffic cooperated willingly, with friendly waves and hoots as they crept past. A couple of ladies even stopped to thank me for taking the trouble to help our friend get over safely. One of the ladies then brought over some water to try to make the tortoise drink, which it didn't, but it seemed to appreciate cool water poured on its head. The lady estimated that this particular tortoise was about 130 years old! I chatted to the ladies for a while and once our shelled friend was safe, and they had offered me food and water, and I had thanked them for their generosity, we went our separate ways. This is the 3rd tortoise I have helped cross a road on my bicycle travels.
As if the tortoise wasn't enough excitement for the day, a few kilometers later, a dark coloured snake crossed the road in front of me! The snake was about a metre long and about 3 centimetres in diameter. It moved very quickly, and I didn't have to swerve to avoid it. I did stop to take a photo, but it had vanished under some shrubbery on the roadside. I didn't hang around to find it, just in case family were following! Never a dull moment in the Karoo!
Silwerkaroo farm sits on a windswept plateau about 8km before the end of the climb. I could see it in the distance as I battled the wind, which had picked up significantly by this time. The old farm house was easily distinguishable with is striped corrugated tin roof. I had a lovely room within this building, with access to a tastefully decorated kitchen, and a farmhouse bathroom. The farm shop sold braai packs, which are essentially boerwors sausages, and not a single fruit, vegetable or carbohydrate! Thankfully, I had some tomatoes, a green pepper, and instant noodles that I had carried all the way from Zimbabwe, with me. When it was time, I got my wood burning and braai'd me some delicious boerwors sausage which I had with tomato and pepper salad, and two portions of instant noodles. Delicious, all things considered.
At dusk, I walked around the farm. I discovered a cemetery adjacent to an outer kraal, with tombstones dating back to the late 1800s. These were presumably previous owners of this land and their descendants. Seeing the graves instilled in me a sense of how many generations of European settlers have laid claim to African soil. Their great great grandchildren continue to live in a South Africa today, that seems to have come some way since the dark days of racial segregation. "Ubuntu" unites a truly remarkable enthnic concoction despite a clear economic division between white citizens and citizens of colour.
Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 2,206 km (1,370 miles)
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