December 7, 2025
To Three Sisters
Another clear blue sky beckoned this morning, with warnings of "unhealthily high" UV exposure possible. I slapped on my factor 50 sun block, which is starting to run low, and made my way out of Victoria West by 7am. The crispness of the fresh morning air is always exhilarating, and I took in deep breaths with my first few pedal strokes. I reminded myself how much I miss seeing blue skies in London, and how good they are for the soul.
I made my way South on the N12, which still maintained its good surface and generous hard shoulder. Drivers hooted, as they do, in encouragement and I reciprocated with a smile and a raised arm, to which I often get more hoots back, like they are more excited that I acknowledged their acknowledging me! The landscape became slightly more undulating which made for a slight change of scenery with distant hills as a backdrop. I came across an area of wild cactus, which caught my attention. These were cacti about 5 metres tall, thriving in the arid conditions of the Great Karoo. With various kopjes in the way, the road meandered between them, and around every curve emerged a new picture. It was magical, and I found myself singing along as the kilometers passed silently under my tyres.
Three Sisters is not a town or village. It is a road junction where the N12 meets the N1, the latter heading westwards towards Capetown. The junction is named after 3 hills, "The Three Sisters", that dominate the horizon when approaching the junction from the North. The hills are magnificent, especially under the high UV blue sky that is normal in these parts at this time of the year. I stopped to gaze at the sisters for a few quiet minutes, with only the sounds of birds and a warm breeze to distract me. It was one of those moments again, when I came to a sudden realisation of where I was and what I was doing.
I turned right onto the N1, and soon crosed the boundary into the Western Cape province. A few kilometers later, I arrived at the entrance to Travalia Farm shop and Guest House. The farm shop was a posh affair, and all its clientelle were well off white South Africans out for a Sunday outing with family. Outside the farm shop, I met two lovely ladies who smiled as I walked up to them to ask what they were doing. They had coal fire going under a grill, and were baking bread patties that smelt delicious. "They are called Roosterkoek and they are eaten with braai'd meat, or with cheese, or with honey.", explained one of the ladies who was skillfully patting the baps into shape and placing them on the grill. I promised to try them at some point. The farm shop had a well decorated inviting cafe, so I stepped in and ordered a coffee and what turned out to be a delicious boerwors sausage roll. I got and extra sausage roll as a takeaway!
A km down a narrow tarmac lane from the farm shop was Trevali Farm Guest House, where I was booked for tonight. I was lucky enough to get a room in the original old farm building, which had much more character than the newly built chalets that now neighboured it. I settled in for the afternoon, did my laundry, sat in the garden, did a crossword, read my book, had dinner, chatted to Alks and watched some rugby on DSTV till I was tired enough to call it another wonderful day.
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 2,066 km (1,283 miles)
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