November 27, 2025
To Setlagole
I was in two minds about whether to have a rest day in Mahikeng or not. But last night, after chatting to Alks about my plans for the next fw days, I decided that I would push on today. I often find that when I am undecided, just spelling out the facts to Alks helps me see logic and decide. She often has useful perspectives and ideas which when presented to me, help me make a decision. This applies to life on tour as well as life at home!
So, all decided, I was up and on the road by 7:30. The N18 is the highway I will be taking as far South as I can, before veering South West at some point in a few weeks time. On the outskirts of Mahikeng, I came across some lovely murals which I stopped to admire. The paintings depicted different aspects of traditional life in Aftica, as well as some impressive portraits of ordinary people, and colonial buildings.
The N18 from the border to Mahikeng was lovely. The N18 out of Mahikeng heading South was not quite the same in that the hard shoulder, that I had gotten so used to, vanished. There was the yellow line that marked the edge of the road, that was now my smoothest surface to ride on. It was not dissimilar to riding on A-roads in the UK. The other thing I noticed was the drivers... they were mostly fine, but there was the occasional lunatic who would either cut me up, or turn right infront of me when it was my right of way. This was not dissimilar to riding through Central Asia earlier this year. Once I was out of town, things improved, but I still missed my hard shoulder. I couldn't help remembering Anouka's father's parting words to me a couple of days ago.
There was plenty village life to see enroute today. Mainly simple brick houses with corrugated metal roofs and typically a vegetable patch with a few chickens or goats or both, feeding off whatever they could forage. Children would scream "hello!", as I rode past, adult males would whistle and wave, and adult females would smile shyly. I was getting a very warm feeling from black South Africans so far. I am conscious that they have been through a lot racially, and anticipated hostility or indifference towards foreigners, but so far all I sensed was warm friendliness. The large farms on either side of the road were owned by white South Africans and I spotted a few of them in their Toyota Landcruisers driving around the perimeters of the fields, while directing their workers who were driving fancy tractors and ploughing the land. Many farms used windmills to pump water from boreholes into irrigation tanks, which I found very interesting.
I had a moderate head wind all day today, plus some undulating terrain to deal with, so I was glad to ride into the tiny village of Setlagole by midday. The village was spread over an area about 2km long the N18, and the main hub of activity was centred around half a dozen small shops scattered around a petrol station at a junction where I was to turn left. My home for the night was Setlagole Farm Guest House, which was a charming and well decorated establishment run by Pauline and her Mum. My room was at the back, where it was cooler and quieter with a lovely breeze blowing through my open windows. I hung my laundry out to dry in the hot afternoon sun and settled down to do a crossword. Needless to say, I dozed off.
When it was cooler in the early evening, I walked to the petrol station to buy some water and fruits. I was tempted by an Indian man selling hot potato chips from a kiosk. He told me his brother's grocery shop sold fruits and all sorts, so I went there and got what I needed. I was quite surprised to come across Indian businessmen in such a remote African village. They spoke Afrikaans and very little English, which also intrigued me, but confirmed to me that they had been here for generations. South Africa is known as the "Rainbow Nation", a name which reflects its rich enthnic diversity. It dawned upon me that I shouldn't have been surprised after all.
Pauline cooked me a delicious dinner of Papa, beef stew, spinach, cabbage and mash potato, which I devoured with bottle of Stoney ginger beer. Oreo cookies for desert were mandatory, ofcourse.
Today's ride: 76 km (47 miles)
Total: 1,348 km (837 miles)
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