November 24, 2025
To Gaberone
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I was woken up last night by the rumble of thunder so loud that it shook the roof of my chalet. Lightning lit up the night sky like is was daylight, and the rain drenched the ground with loud heavy drops of water. The storm was actually quite intimidating and I was glad to be tucked away safely in my bed. I had forgotten how imposing a proper thunder storm can be. I recalled many such storms from when I was a little boy growing up in Zambia. The storm last light took me back to childhood days in Lusaka. In the morning, birdsong, a cool light breeze and that fresh smell of wet African soil was all that was left of the anger from the night before. I enjoyed a huge "fat-cake" (Botswanan doughnut - delicious) fruit, nuts and coffee before loading up and pedalling back onto the A1 towards Gaberone.
Botswana's colonial history is interesting in that their three nationalist heroes argued that their country should continue, not stop, being a protectorate of Africa’s biggest imperialist power, Great Britain. The 3 digkosis (chiefs) are honoured in statues placed in a well maintained garden square in the shadow of an office block and the courts of justice. The monument also includes panels featuring carvings of national virtues, including ‘Botshabelo’ (refuge), ‘Bogaka’ (heroism), ‘Boitshoko’ (endurance), ‘Maikarabelo’ (global responsibility) and ‘Boipuso’ (independence). By cleverly helping to keep Botswana under the administration of the British Crown, the 3 dikgosis – Bathoen, Khama II and Sebele – prevented the country from coming under the control of Cecil Rhodes, who most likely would have been a far more exploitative and cruel administrator, as was witnessed by Northern and Southern Rhodesia.
The 3 dikgosis monument was my first stop as I rode into Gabetone after a very pleasant and short 45km today. I was most impressed by the national virtues by which every Botswanan is taught to live. Virtues that would not go amiss in every country in the world. I admired the 3 statues for a while, reflecting on how they managed to reduce Botswana's colonial suffering until their independence in 1966. Gaberone is a super clean, well maintained capital city, mainly hosting shopping malls and government buildings. The National museum, Kgale Hill and the 3 digkosi monument are the main points of interest. I walked around the very well kept centre of town taking in a very relaxed and laid back atmosphere. Not a spot of litter in sight, Gaberonians are clearly proud of their environment. I fancied the National Museum but alas it was shut today.
As I rode around town I received much attention from young adults who were very impressed by my bike. "Hey Sir, that is a very beautiful bicycle!" They were all very friendly and struck up polite conversation, but I couldn't help feeling a little exposed and vulnerable riding around on a machine that generated such a high level of interest. I put that nervousness aside, telling myself that it was unjustified, but a small part of me remained cautious. I am constantly aware that the bike, the equipment on it and my journey will draw attention, and occasionally, perhaps the wrong kind of attention. My approach is to always face all attention with a smile, a fist pump, and polite respectful conversation, with a view to dispell any unwelcome thoughts lingering in my admirers' minds.
I spent the rest of the day chatting to Alks, which is always a joy, doing London admin, shopping for snacks, having dinner (another delicious and healthy Spar hot deli meal) and sitting on a bench in a warm breeze in a local park, watching normal life go by. It really felt like a rest day today, so I finished it off with an ice-cold St Louis (local) beer in the air conditioned hotel lobby.
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 1,122 km (697 miles)
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