November 22, 2025
To Mahalapye
The rain from last night cooled and cleansed the morning air. I woke up to a fresh morning and had my porridge, nuts, fruit and coffee on the veranda outside my room before setting off. The nightclub at the end of the road leading to the A1 was still playing music, albeit at a low volume, and I was relieved not to have spent the night in one of the many lodges next to it!
The road out of Palapye was quiet at 7:30am, and a very pleasant ride ensued over the gently undulating A1 heading South. In the distance, I saw real hills for the first time in Botswana, and they made for a welcome change in scenery! More farms lined the side of the road and cattle grazed freely, sometimes precariously close to the highway. I spotted a couple of dead cows, sadly hit by passing traffic, and wondered if the herdsman would have been compensated for his loss. The irony was that there wasn't a herdsman in sight to ask! So apparently, the cattle are left to roam and graze unattended, and at their peril.
A couple who were driving South slowed down to my speed to have a chat for about 5 minutes, which was nice, and indicative of how quiet the road was! They asked the usual questions, and I answered. They offered me water which I declined, with thanks, as I was well stocked. They wished me good luck and sped off. This was another reaffirmation for me that although I was all alone, I wasn't alone: This is one of the main topics of conversation that I have with friends back home when they (understandably) query the solitude of my journey. Personally, I am constantly reminded of the kindness of strangers during my bike tours.
I got to Mahalapye just after midday and found another small town, lightly populated, getting on with the day. There were more supermarkets than seemed necessary, and I spotted the local Choppies and Spar, making note of how far they were from Tshibo Lodge, where I had booked a room for the night. My room was actually a very tidy and well equipped cottage, set apart from the rest of the blocks, amidst a lovely rock garden.
I felt good after todays relatively short ride, but was aware that tomorrow was going to be a tad challenging. The only other accommodation opportunity was about 160km away. I would do the distance if I had to, but would prefer to break it up if possible. The only opportunity I could find to break the journey was Dibete Police Station, about 90km away. I decided that I would give the Police Station a go for a camp spot, if they would let me. From google photos, the station looked like a large establishment, and the only significant indication of human presence for many kilometers either side of it. With that in mind I did some extra food shopping, tested my Sawyer water filter and ignited my petrol stove, just to make sure that I was camping ready, should the opportunity arise.
Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 917 km (569 miles)
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2 months ago