November 13, 2025
To Kwekwe
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During colonial times, a pretty town in the Midlands Province of Zimbabwe used to be known as "Que Que". Today, it is called "Kwekwe", which is its traditional name, intended to reflect the croaking sounds of the many frogs in the Kwekwe river that flows nearby. I was heading to Kwekwe today.
Another early start with fruit, overnight oats and coffee to set me up saw me hit the road at 7:30 am. My fruit rations were a tad low due to the financial challenges of the previous evening caused by the current US Dollar economy. It was going to be another long day, so I wanted to give myself plenty of time. The tail wind from the day before had all but vanished, and with no rain forecast, it was a warm 28 degree day. I felt fatigue from yesterday's ride, so focused on a measured sustainable effort, but was conscious that I would be slower today.
Leaving Chegutu, the road soon took on the standard monotonous format with very little variation in scenery. 30km in, I rolled through Kadoma where I got some water and chatted to a group of men who wanted to buy my bike. They were ever so nice, and wished me well as I set off, declining their offers of Zimbabwean currency!
A few undulating hills later I rode through a small town, or settlement, called "Battlefields". I couldn't help wonder, with sadness, where in Zimbabwe's bloody colonial past that name originated. Zimbabwe still holds many reminders of its time as a British Colony, not least the few scattered towns and settlements with clearly foreign names: Borrowdale, Glen view, Plum Tree, Avon Dale etc. Every time I ride through a place with a western name, I can't help feeling sadness for the local people struggling to make a living after having been plundered by the British. The British Empire was vast, and there are many countries who suffered the same way, but my soft spot for Zimbabwe remains because I spent my formative teenage years in this beautiful country.
With 30 km to go, I stopped at one of the many picnic benches set away from the road, suitably signposted. I had some salty nuts and biscuits, and longed for a cup of tea. A couple of small monkeys kept me company, in return for a few salty nuts.
Kwekwe was pleasant, with flower bedded roundabouts leading into the main street. KFC, Nandos and Steers caught my eye, but not as much as the Spar Supermarket where I looked forward to using my credit card to buy fruit! I checked into the Tropicana Hotel, which was adequate at 40 USD for bed only, no toilet seat, no hot water and no towel! The staff were lovely though, displaying gleaming smiles as they delivered all the bad news.
I was exhausted. I had lovely sadza, goat stew and greens for lunch, and the had a nap. Later in the day I bought plenty fruit, treated myself to Nandos and settled down to plan a few days ahead. Tomorrow will be a shorter day distance wise, but will be a gradual climb all day. I massaged my legs in preparation.
Today's ride: 109 km (68 miles)
Total: 243 km (151 miles)
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