Cath: Obertsdorf to Weeze

Unfortunately, after seeing mum off, I had to head back to Oberstdorf to get my bike. I was subject to MORE good company, amazing food, fantastic coffee and a walk in the Alps.

Stephen had been riding like a madman for a few weeks now and it was my turn to strike out on my own.

This was something I have been keen to do for a while. I had never toured on my own. Never had to make decisions and been wholly accountable. I have lived on my bike for more than 2 years cumulatively but still felt like I didn't really know what I was doing.

I had bought a ticket for an entirely hedonistic music festival in Weeze. Three days of electronic music made possible by a WarmShowers host who was willing to allow me to camp at her farm nearby, despite her dislike for the festival. Simone was a woman to be admired. She had ridden her bike for three years through Africa and the Americas, come home to Germany and taken on a bio farm and had two children. She is strong, she is working like a madwoman, she is raising two children on her own. She is committed. She had her birthday party happening at her farm in just over a week. Warmshowers works with hosts offering hospitality to cyclists with the idea they can return the favor to others in the future. We have never hosted. No one seems to want to come up the hill 10km from the city, so it's hard to pay it back. We were happy with the opportunity to pay back in labor. I'm not saying we did much, but those blackberry bushes didn't see what was coming! Hopefully her garden looks great for her party.

Bumped up my step count with my dancing shoes

Getting muddy helping out in the potato field

But I jump ahead. Back to Oberstdorf. I followed the river Iller to Ulm, then somehow found the Neckar to follow to Mannheim, then onto the Rhine. Cyclists everywhere. No one bothers greeting each other as there are just so many cyclists. But every so often you spot a long-distance cyclist ahead, there's no 'e', the panniers are full, sometimes there are even four of them....and a sly smile and a head nod is exchanged.

Sleeping wasn't the problem I thought it would be, but only once I had secured a SIM card and had data. Travelling is easier now, but the spontaneity is lost a little. Wild camping is illegal in Germany, and though a wild camp would not be impossible to find if needed, a website called 1NiteTent has sprung up in Germany. Generous, friendly people happy to offer a patch of grass in their backyard and access to their bathroom. All you need at the end of the day. So I met Margit, Ulla, Seb, and Katja. All fun interesting Germans happy to provide hospitality. It was a breeze. Travelling in one of the safest countries, on mainly bike paths where food and water are almost always available. And it was fun. Not fun enough to do away with Stephen, but good to know I can survive, I can enjoy being on my own.

Cosy little spot out the back of Margits house

Margit: She had completed her staged tour to Nordkapp the year before

Enjoying my break and my sandwich care of Margit: thankyou!

Ulla, happy to help me out and have good chats in the morning

Sebs Backyard: Seb had hiked the length of New Zealand the year before and was happy to help other 'slow travelers'. Fortunately so were his neighbors as he lived in a apartment complex with three other apartments

Its a Barge! very exciting! until is saw loads and loads of them

Phil: happy to host me through Warmshowers. So generous. I turned up and he had a steak ready to cook for me, good chat, a warm shower and chocolate :)

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