A Bottle of You-Know-What

December 2, 2025

Chiang Khong, Thailand to Huay Xai, Laos

Dear little friends,

There were a few things to stock up on before heading to Laos so after we were up and showered and so on we hopped on our bikes and headed towards Chiang Khong. First stop was at the big Lotus’s at the edge of town, right after they opened at 8:00. Well, maybe Lotus’s was open but nothing else in this quasi-mall was, every little kiosk was draped in cloth or had it’s grated gate closed. Even if I had wanted a Dairy Queen chocolate dipped cone at 8 am I would have been out of luck.

But Lotus’s had muesli. It did not have the conditioner we wanted. Or, rather, it had it in tiny bottles on one aisle, in slightly less tiny bottles in another aisle, and in giant Costco-sized liter bottles in another. Another win for 7-Eleven, who carries them all in one aisle and just the right size.

We’ve spent a lot of time in Chiang Khong and have some favorite places including a khao soi place that was our next stop for breakfast. A coffee shop conveniently attached made it a morning winner. As we dawdled over our wonderful khao soi Bruce said something that I had already been thinking.

“I’d kind of like to stop over at Baan Rimtaling.”

Baan Rimtaling is a place along the Mekong that we have stayed at numerous times. In 2014 we met up with Michael and Jocelyn Rice after they had ridden all the way from Europe, including through Iran. In 2017 we stayed there two whole weeks at the end of our trip. Three years ago we ate Christmas pizza there in a record cold spell as we all huddled around a small cookstove fire. Lots of memories, and that’s not all of them.

Earlier this year I heard from Maleewan that the government had forced her to demolish Baan Rimtaling, which she had built and run for over 20 years. I’m not clear on the reasoning, but other guesthouses nearby fell to the same fate. Granted, it was a beautiful wooden place but getting a bit shaky because wood in SE Asia, unless it’s pure teak, goes the way of all flesh/wood in a pretty short spell.

We were so sad when we heard this news. It had been a lively center for travelers and expats and locals, with an amazing view of the Mekong and great food, and a lively host and several adorable cats. A home away from home. Some people lived there all winter. We were so sad that we had already agreed that it would be too sad to see it if we were in Chiang Khong.

But we were eating khao soi within a quarter mile of it and we both secretly wanted to see it and pay tribute.

So we did. Bruce took a few photos, and then picked up something from the ground, a little thai dancer figurine that must have been knocked off of a shrine or something. A couple of ceramic candle holders. We wrapped them in a plastic seat cover and took them back to our room to clean up and take with us, artifacts of memory.

Believe it or not, that was our bathroom the last two times we stayed there.

This was the kitchen where so many wonderful meals were made.

We stopped at a 7-Eleven to make up what we couldn't get from Lotus's. I was waiting outside and could see Bruce talking with an older foreigner, who seemed to have buttonholed him right in the middle of the checkout line. I took a seat in the shade and pretty soon that same guy came out and talked my ear off. He's lived in Chiang Khong for 17 years and maybe just needed to have a chat in English once in awhile.

All set for Laos and a two day boat trip.

Then it was time to load up and go to Laos. There’s a straight, imposing road to the Friendship Bridge, some folderol with getting stamped out of Thailand, a stupid fee for the bus that we are required to use to cross the bridge, which is ridiculous. Yes, the lane changes from left to right to enter Laos but it’s not rocket science. So annoying. Bruce kept threatening to just go for it and ride across anyway but I didn’t feel like any more hassle than we will already be getting at the Lao Immigration office.

A short bus ride over the bridge. So annoying.

For once there wasn’t a huge mob trying to get into Laos. We had just found out the night before that it was Lao National Day today, the 50th anniversary! All that meant to us is that the banks would be closed. Whoops.

Lao Immigration is famous for corrupt fees added onto the stupid $40 visa fee. These are usually small amounts but kind of infuriating because they are not on any official sign, you know that they are paying for beer or coffee for the officers, and it’s just so blatant. We did all that, and finally got through and out to what always looks like a Third World Thailand. Laos has some wonderful aspects but it’s usually a bit of a mess, which I was reminded of immediately in the immense and filthy public toilets outside of immigration. All of them were squatters, out of the 8 sinks only one was in working order, you get the idea.

This lady took our visa fees and 20 baht more, I guess she charges for holding the gate open for me.

I didn't think to photograph the ladies' restroom, it's a toss-up which was worse.

On to Huay Xai! It’s like riding through the Wild West, swirls of dust, people on janky motorbikes and tuk-tuks, pickup trucks riding our ass, and Beerlao signs/bottles/cartons everywhere. Beerlao may be the only thing manufactured in Laos and it’s such a part of the culture that you might as well partake. It’s actually pretty good, especially over ice.

The ugliest house ever is being built on the outskirts of Huay Xai, Laos.

This bridge on the way into Huay Xai was like the military had thrown it down during the war in the 1960s.

Our guesthouse cost a little more than its neighboring guesthouses but was totally worth it for a helpful host who changed our money for us, gave us a quiet room with a comfy bed, and it’s mere steps away from the slow boat launch where we will be departing from in the morning. I washed some clothes and hung them from the bikes and the metal grating at the end of the hallway.

The boat launch we will go down to in the morning.

We were looking for tomorrow's ticket office but it was closed.

We sat at a rooftop restaurant with barstools and a bench table overlooking the Mekong. We had some mediocre fried rice (hello, Laos) and split a bottle of you-know-what over glasses of ice. The sunset was beautiful. The Mekong was beautiful. The little bubbles in our glasses were beautiful. I texted a photo to my kids and my daughter-in-law replied, “Now you’re talking.”

Today's ride: 17 miles (27 km)
Total: 392 miles (631 km)

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Victa CalvoHi guys,
I've been catching up on your blog over the past few days. It is always a pleasure reading about your SE Asian travels. I was looking forward to your visit to Chiang Khong and Maleewan's Baan Rimtaling hostel. If I couldn't be there, then the next best thing would be reading about your visit. It's upsetting to read that she had to close down the hostel. Also very interesting to see that the Thai government is pushing a new rail line to Chiang Khong.

Oh well ... I can't , but I do sometimes wish that I could, keep my favourite parts of the planet from changing. I look forward to catching up with the rest of your blog.

Good luck on the journey.
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1 month ago

Andrea BrownTo Victa CalvoYou and me both, Victa. Some of these changes have really stung.

But we’re glad you are riding along with us. We are back in Thailand and ready for a breather.
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1 month ago