Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

November 12, 2025

Since we are in Chiang Mai under doctor's orders for three more days we had time to go up Suthep Mountain to visit the most sacred temple in Thailand - Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. I mean, if you are in Chiang Mai, you must go up there. It's very nearby, just 2500 feet up.

Wat means temple in Thai but more sacred temples have the honorific/royal/sacred "Phra" in front of "Wat" and "Phra" is usually followed by "That" which means relic, as in a body part of the Buddha kept in the Chedi. "Doi" means mountain in Thai. So, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep means the Wat on Suthep mountain that is super sacred because there is supposedly a bone from the Buddha enshrined there. It is such a sacred temple that the entire mountain is sacred and is preserved as wilderness.

Further down the road from the temple is the King's summer residence. Or, is it the winter residence, I can't remember. I do remember when I was a student at Chiang Mai University, in the winter, that occasionally the King in his police encircled entourage would drive quickly through the city and everyone on the sidewalk would suddenly be prostrate on the ground leaving me the out-of-touch foreigner standing there wondering what in the world had happened to all those people. I know the King hung out up there in the winter but it makes more sense that it was his summer hangout due to it being cooler up there. Fortunately the present King hangs out in Germany all the time so there are no more awkward moments on the sidewalks of Chiang Mai.

Hopefully nothing else will ever be built up on the beautiful mountain. Doi Suthep rises abruptly from the Chiang Mai valley and therefore is visible from anywhere in Chiang Mai city. It's comforting to look to the west and see the entire mountain all green and forested knowing that it will always be that way. It adds tremendously to the charm of Chiang Mai.

There is a legend surrounding the origins of the temple. In about 1368 a monk had a dream in which he was told to go looking for a relic, a bone. He did as he was told in his dream and he somehow found the bone he was supposed to find. It had magical powers such as being able to glow or vanish and reappear. He showed it to the Sukhothai King but he didn't think much of it. He showed it to the Lanna King (King of all of northern Thailand) as well and he was mildly more impressed with the bone. Somewhere along the line the bone broke in two and one piece was enshrined in Wat Suan Dok which I showed you in photos. The other piece the Lanna King took and strapped it to the back of a white elephant. The elephant then took off up the mountain probably trying to get the thing off its back. The elephant got most of the way up the mountain when it suddenly trumpeted three times and then dropped dead. (Someone must have been tailing the elephant to know this.) It was thought all along that the bone, of course, must be the shoulder bone of The Buddha. I forgot to mention that. But I'm not clear as to why it had to be strapped on the back of a white elephant. But since the elephant died the Lanna King ordered a temple to be built on the spot. That's the origin story of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The shoulder bone (half of it) is enshrined in the Chedi.

Anyway, we took a little red pickup up the mountain with foreigners from countries as scattered across the globe as it seems are Buddha's bones. Two Argentine, two Slovenians, two who were possibly speaking French and another American besides us went up on two benches facing each other. Nobody talked on the way up. We were given two hours to walk up the 309 steps to the temple, rest, and see what goes on up there before we had to be back to our little red truck.

The temple is rather small and intimate and I think the main attraction is the gold Chedi. The Chedi is one of the most beautiful I've ever seen and I especially like the red picket-type fence which surrounds the base of the Chedi. Each of the pickets is topped with a gold cap with the impression of a standing Buddha stamped into it. There is a different feeling at Wat Doi Suthep, as most people call it. Whenever I've been up there I feel how much the Thai people respect and love the temple. They buy lotus buds, sticks of incense and candles and walk around the base of the Chedi three times and their faces always have a tremendous peacefulness about them.

There were a lot of people at Wat Doi Suthep when we were there but somehow everyone was quiet and respectful, quickly moving out of each other's way in order for them to photograph. It's a special place for sure and then there is the view! One story down from the temple and Chedi is a plaza in which to view the city of Chiang Mai. This particular time the air was the cleanest I have ever seen and it was a beautiful day too. We could clearly see the one mile square of the old section of Chiang Mai surrounded by the moat. There is a law that no building be more than three stories tall in the old section and that helped to define that area. We couldn't see the actual water of the moat but one tourist thought he did. We overheard him saying to his friends, "Yes, that's the moat right there. See the castle inside! That's the water of the moat." Well, where do I start? There is no castle anywhere in Chiang Mai, I'll start there. He was looking at a wide lake or reservoir that was on the other side of the airport, nowhere near the city. Obviously he had not done a lick of research. But, he was having a wonderful time up at Wat Doi Suthep and that's about all that matters. Castle!! We're not in Germany anymore, buddy!

I love the whole procedure of going up to see Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. All the tourists, and locals too, are excited to go in the little red trucks. There is an anticipation as we sway together this way and that up the winding seemingly endless road to be let out at the base of the Naga stairway. Our group was happy and excited on the way up the mountain but nobody said anything to each other. Coming down, however, was a different story. We could tell everyone was in a great mood but Andrea really broke the silence with a thumbs up while asking, "Did everyone have a good time?" The entire group erupted in enthusiastic yeses! And off we all were speaking to each other, chattering the entire way down. By the time the driver dropped us off in the middle of a major intersection near to where we had boarded three hours earlier, we were all friends standing at the back of the truck obstructing traffic saying our goodbyes and not really wanting to go our separate ways. Maybe that bone inside the Chedi does have some sort of power.

lovebruce

The beginning of 309 steps flanked by Nagas.

There is no way this woman will get onto the grounds of any temple in Thailand dressed the way she is.

This is the main entrance leading to the upper main part of the temple.

This is the first view upon entering Wat Doi Suthep.

Besides the beautiful Chedi are the four gold umbrellas at the four corners of the Chedi. I've seen them at a couple of other temples in Thailand but none are as beautiful as these.

At Wat Doi Suthep it's mostly about the beautiful Chedi and umbrellas. The main Viharn or temple itself, which is to the right, is not the main attraction. Usually it is but since there is a Buddha bone inside the Chedi it is more important and popular to walk around three times.

Umbrellas signify royalty or sacredness. Umbrellas also are stacked up near the top of the spire of the Chedi in descending size. They start just above where the relics are kept.

Love the picket fence at Wat Doi Suthep.

Thanks to my friend John who informed me that these straw-like things were for attaching money (donations) which is a way for a person to gain merit.

If I ever cut my hair this is how I'm going to do it.

The monks have not yet removed all the lanterns from the Loy Krathong festival.

The straight line towards the left hand side is the moat, one side of the square mile of the old section. The very straight line going towards the top is Thaphae Road which is main street leading from the Ping River to Thaphae Gate which is on the east side of the old section of town - the most important gate and entrance to the city. In ancient times goods were taken by boat and then entered the city through Thaphae Gate.

Just above the monks is the Chiang Mai Airport (CNX) and to the right of it is some water which is what someone thought was the moat with a castle inside it.

There is a place down below the stairs where there are shops after shops chock full of tchotchkes all selling basically the same stuff.

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Gregg ButenskyBest line so far: "We're not in Germany anymore, buddy!"

And such a splendid, easy 6 words, Andrea! “Did everyone have a good time?"

What’s a Buddha’s toilet?
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2 months ago

Andrea BrownTo Gregg ButenskyI think they meant the toilet reserved for monks, judging by another nearby sign.

I am shy so I had to screw up a little courage to see if everyone would warm up. I’m grateful everyone was in a good mood and willing to jump into conversation.
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2 months ago

Kristen Arnim👍
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2 months ago

John SolemSo beautiful -- I think Wat Doi Suthep just scored another future tourist!
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2 months ago

Bruce LellmanTo John SolemYou would spend the entire day there for sure. It is most definitely a special temple. It's no wonder the Thais love it so much.
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2 months ago