117: the ski library, heavier, added detours, bba stand, no exit, ski lift, cocoa break, a something of trees, legs inn, zoltar predicts, reproachful stares, 2nd most , scarecrow, concern, deteriorating pads, weaponized fun, missing the lights

September 3, 2025

Petoskey to Wilderness

We left our campsite early and drove to Petoskey, dropped off the car, and started riding at 9:30.

Within 30 seconds of beginning our ride it began raining, but only lightly.

a new twist on the tiny lending library: skis and ski poles

It continued throughout the day, with only brief, occasional breaks.

I forgot to load my route onto the Garmin so I had to use the RideWithGPS app on my phone. The problem with that was the rain continuously pelted the screen. As a result, about every 10-15 minutes a raindrop would hit just the right spot and the ride would get canceled, or it would add another stop.... usually in a location nowhere near us, and sometimes worse, just a couple of streets over.

For all practical purposes, my phone was unusable for navigation most of the day, and we ended up on a few short adventurous detours here and there. Later, I spliced all the disparate sections of the route together like islands in an archipelago to create our ride today.

I guess with a B.B.A. in Marketing from the University of Cincinnati this is as good a place to start as any.

our first glimpse of Lake Michigan for the day

We took a break on the porch of this school and ate a snack.

I'm not a weather forecaster, but I'm going to go out on a limb and predict that instead of the 95% chance of rain like it says, there's more like a 100% chance of rain today.

The rain and the low-lying clouds gave Lake Michigan a sense of gray, muscular power.

Both of us were feeling pretty wiped out (read: only me, since Lori appeared to have boundless stores of energy) when I saw a simple sign that said "Coffee." We wheeled in and after clambering off the bikes went inside to the relative warmth. There was a trail of water from the door to our seats, and within a couple of minutes there were puddles on the concrete floor beneath us.

I tried charging my phone while we were there but it was, like us, too wet.

Napkins were conveniently placed on the end table by the soft leather couch so I used one to dry my face, mopping the rain away and drying my hair.

The cold and rain had slowly seeped inside, but the hot chocolate sent waves of warmth through me, and the massive chocolate cookie bumped my fatigue meter from 7-8 back down to a 1-2.

When I noted some cookie crumbs on my mouth I dabbed it with the linen napkin I had used for my face, and Lori offered an observation:

“You realize that those are for sale, right?”

My face went blank for a moment as I processed what she had said, then I sank down in my seat in an attempt to become invisible.

She was referring to the napkin I had used to dry my face earlier, then to wipe the spittle and crumbs from my mouth, and it occurred to me that that was probably the reason the cashier kept glancing over in my direction.

They don't LOOK like they're for sale, do they??? I mean, the LAMP isn't for sale, is it??

I decided to purchase the $15.00 linen napkin and, by god, I'm gonna put it to use. It's so stylish, and when I tuck it into my shirt I'm sure passersby will detour over in my direction to make comments such as, "My goodness! Where did you get that napkin?!? I really must have one!!"

As I was purchasing my high-quality napkin, I also asked for a mop to clean up our watery mess. The cashier, fifteen dollars richer, just laughed and said she’d take care of it.

As I was loading my handlebar bag back onto the bike I saw her through the window walking over to our table with a mop.

Lake Michigan, creating a stark sense of awe and wonder.

Today's section included the tunnel of trees, a 20-mile-long path in which the trees create a long tube that you ride through. There's probably a more eloquent description than a Long Tube of Trees, but I can't think of one.

I never saw a single one, and I'm guessing it's because they're smart enough to avoid this weather.

I was told by several people to stop at the Legs Inn, and with a name like that, who wouldn't want to? It gets its name from the white stove legs showcased in front of the building.

Zoltar agreed it's a great place, and predicted rain in my future.

There were a lot of dead animals adorning the walls, staring down at customers in rapt reproach as they ate their burgers and beef stew.

There were other items for sale, such as carved walking sticks, a giant log shaped like a pummel horse, totem poles, African masks, and knick-knacks forever memorializing your visit to the Legs Inn.

"I think that's my cousin on your plate, mister."

The "2nd Most Iconic Restaurant in the State of Michigan" --- an odd statement to make on a marquee. I did a google search to see what #1 is: "While there's no single 'most iconic,' Michigan has many famous restaurants, including the Bavarian Inn in Frankenmuth for its German family-style dinners and iconic setting, and Sleder's Family Tavern in Traverse City as the state's oldest continuously operating restaurant. Metro Detroit also boasts numerous historically significant establishments like Loui's Pizza. "

This looked bizarre from the road, so I went for a closer look.

About 50 yards off the road, this appeared to be the rock remains of an old house which has been turned into a garden, or possibly a place of meditation.

I should tell you that I was a bit worried about Lori. Today has been difficult, even for an experienced rider like me. The skies gifted us with a generous downpour, filling the streets with brown rivers and silt. The rain was horizontal, rarely stopping, and blowing straight into our faces at a steady 20 mph all day.... far more rain than I've experienced on any trip since I started cycling in the early 1980s. How can anyone but a seasoned tourist know that this isn't a typical day? Obviously, only an insane person, present company included, would actually enjoy this....

Will she want to continue? She'll get no judgement from me if she doesn't.

But: every time I looked in my mirror she had this giant, silly grin on her face.

Yeah... she's gonna be juuuust fine.

At around mile 45 we realized we needed to refuel. It had been a tough day, and if we waited until we ride to the park, set up camp, then cook our dehydrated meals it'll be another couple of hours... so we stopped at the only convenience store in the region for a snack and ate it under the awning of the store.

That's when I noticed my right front brake pad. This is really concerning - it looks like it's disintegrating, which is odd because I'm absolutely sure I haven't put any kind of chemicals or cleaners on it or the rim (and why just the one?). Although, with 85 lbs of gear on a 50-lb bike going down a hill, do I really need brakes?

We rode to the beach of Lake Michigan before finding our campsite. She kicked my ass today.

I’ll add that this picture was sent to Heather, my wife, and Damien, Lori’s husband. They’ve been sending us pictures for the past several days showing how much fun they’re having. Turning having fun into a competition: “Look at us! We’re at the library on a TOUR! Having WAY more fun than you!” accompanied by a picture of them laughing maniacally, a soft craziness in their eyes. And: “We’re drinking coffee! and there’s MUSIC playing on the speakers!! Having SOOO much fun!” while holding up sterile white containers.

Our campsite was right on the water so there wasn't much obstructing the wind off Lake Michigan. The headwind had remained steady all day at 20-22 mph, but here it seemed like we were in a wind tunnel, and the wind chill factor dropped the temperature from the mid 50s to the low 40s. Not unpleasant, mind you, but the roar never stopped so we needed to yell at each other when trying to communicate from tent to tent, even as close as we were.

The fierce wind was definitely a factor if, for example (and I'm just randomly coming up with this off the top of my head for no apparent reason) a person wanted to slip out of his tent at night and urinate in the bushes... that person would need to make sure he aimed downwind. Again, I'm not even sure what made me think of that example.

Disappointingly, the aurora moved farther north and we weren't able to see it either last night or tonight.

....and the rain continued all night....

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Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 3,061 miles (4,926 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	13
Comment on this entry	Comment	10

Jeff LeeI was glad I had my waterproof Ortlieb map case on my handlebar bag when I rode for three or four hours in the rain in Virginia last month. It kept my phone dry and functioning with the RWGPS app while I rode. You can operate the phone through the plastic case.

I'd recommend getting one. I bought mine after a similar experience as yours, when my phone got wet on a 100 mile ride in the rain.
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3 months ago

Mark BinghamTo Jeff LeeI have one, but for some reason it doesn't work so I left it at home. When I push the buttons through the plastic nothing happens. User error, I'm sure.
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3 months ago

Mike AylingA character building day!
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3 months ago

Mark BinghamTo Mike AylingI think I could go with a bit less character. :-)
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3 months ago

Karen PoretNetherlands-like, Mark.. goed werk !
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3 months ago

Rich FrasierThat day was so wet that I'm mopping the excess water off of my computer monitor. Hope the weather improves.
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3 months ago

George (Buddy) HallWow - that was a genuine hardcore cycle touring day by anyone's standards. Perhaps Lori's stamina is pushing you toward cycle touring greatness, whatever that might mean. I'm certainly impressed - not just a long hard day in the rain, but then camping in the crazy wind and rain too - you're earning your way to Cyclist Valhalla.
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3 months ago

Mark BinghamTo George (Buddy) HallIt was definitely hard but, having read your journals, nothing like what you've pedaled through. You're in a different plane, and an actual badass.
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3 months ago

Gregory GarceauI have a phone with a screen that won't crack no matter how many times I drop it, and no matter how much abuse it gets. Yet, a tiny drop of rain will prevent me from taking pictures or accessing anything on-line. What's up with that? (I apologize for writing so many messages on one page.)
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3 months ago

Mark BinghamTo Gregory GarceauNo need to apologize! I love comments! (and I don't know what's up with that screen thing... definitely odd)
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3 months ago